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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, situated high among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.